When you're a foodie the concept of a relaxing tropical holiday can be fraught with danger. All too often the dining options are watered down for the tourist's palate or are untouched, untooled perfection hidden somewhere so far off the tourist trail that you spend the entire trip clambering through the jungle trying to find it.
Now I've done my fair share of the latter (think impossibly perfect goat satay and delicate yet sharply spicy, flaky and moist fish, under a completely non-signposted and unlabelled umbrella set up halfway off a cliff just out of Pelabuhan Ratu for only a few hours every few days) but that kind of exploration takes serious planning and hard work. And just forget about matching wines with your dinner - the local stuff is closer to what you find in cardboard boxes back home - just slightly less refined.
But then there's Vanuatu. Inexplicably and incompetently jointly managed by the British and the French in its days as the New Hebrides, the French influence remains on the table.
Just don't leave your pain au chocolat on the table too long - the humidity here is no friend to pastry.
Organic beef, fresh coffee cherries, gargantuan tropical fruit and schools of deep sea fish find their home in the lush environs of Vanuatu. Combined with the precision of French training, enthusiastic local chefs and baristas, a wide selection of French wines and proper butter in the supermarket, white sand and gently cleansing waves, you've got something very special indeed.
Vanuatu is an island archipelago in the Pacific Ocean, just North-East of New Caledonia and West of Fiji. It is only a few hours flying time from the East coast of Australia. Flights are available from Sydney and Brisbane and fly to both Port Vila (the capital, on the island Efate) and Santo. Vanuatu is also only a hop, skip and a jump from New Zealand.
The local Ni-Vanuatu people mainly engage in subsistence agriculture but the tourism industry is a growing source of employment. We met locals who proudly showed us their community crops, including bananas, coconuts and the oddly named breadfruit tree, which were tended to and available to the whole village. We were also shown markers in the water that were used to rotate fishing locations and protect fishing stocks for future generations.
The welcome we received from the locals was significantly friendlier than that given to some early European arrivals - many of whom soon became star attractions at the dinner table.
Vanuatu is now better known for its beautiful beaches, amazing scuba diving and snorkeling. There are American WWII relics that were thrown into the sea after the war and now make interesting and relatively accessible dive sites.
As keen snorkellers we spent plenty of time underwater. The visibility from the surface is impressive, particularly if you can avoid the touristy areas which have suffered from coral bleaching.
For political, military and history buffs, Vanuatu's past is interesting and worth discovering. Its recent status as a tax haven and the zero income tax also make it an interesting proposition - but be warned - it seems that the Australian Federal Police are as fond of Vanuatu as we are, and the Vanuatu Government is being increasingly cooperative.
Check back later or subscribe to see my reviews of accommodation and dining options in Vanuatu.
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Tags: beef, butter, chocolate, coffee, dinner, foodie, fresh, meal, planning, prepared, wine




Beyond Beeton is a post-modern guide to household management inspired by Mrs Beeton’s 1861 Book of Household Management.
Over eight years ago, my wife Silvana, and I decided to make Vanuatu our home after opening a resort on Tanna (White Grass Ocean Resort), Silvana is from Southerh Italy and I from New Caledonia. We loved the people and the food so much we decided to set up a business that would assist travellers discover the Vanuatu (www.vanuatu-hotels.vu) we have fallen in love with.
I remember when we first arrived with our german shepperd "Chloe" on the island of Tanna early 1971 the staff had never seen such a large dog, and it took some convincing to prove to them that she would not bite their heads off. Regardless the staff were allways on the look out for the nearest coconut tree to climb up, should Chloe be in a bad mood. I told them to find some food for our dog as there was none to be had in the resort (still not operational) and our container had not arrived, one local shop had a couple of 5 yr old rusty tins of Pal dogfood left behind by a yacht.
The staff brought back 15 kilos of live lobsters. Silvana and I ate lobster for the next week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, cooked every conceivable way imaginable, but Chloe was not impressed...she was starving and eyeing the staff...they then rapidly brought back a live baby goat (keeping things live for as long as possible before consuming it makes a lot of sence if there is no refrigeration around) which they proceded to kill by smashing its head with a big stick, we could hear it all from our office. Chloe had fresh meat but we have never lived down the guilt.......living "a la primitive" will provide indelible memories!
We are (now live in Port Vila) and working on our Restaurant and gastronomic section in our site, so hopefully we will be able to further help all you "foodies" out there, in the meantime dont hesitate to contact us.
Tropical regards, John Nicholls
PS: We are definetally off Lobster after three years of eating wheelbarrows full of them....for free. Well someone had to eat Chloe's share.
Hi John. We didn't make it to Tanna on our last trip but are planning to visit and see the volcano.
Vanuatu is a very special place and you and Silvana are very lucky to be able to live there. It is great to see that you are promoting sustainable and environmentally friendly tourism.
You've sold me on Vanuatu!
I agree, some countries are great for relaxing but don't offer a great deal for the culinary tourist.Vanuatu sounds great and thankfully it's not too far away from Sydney!
Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella’s last blog post..Look at what the Postman brought me…
Lorraine: I will be definitely going again. It is also less commercialised and touristy than some other Pacific Islands. Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I have a feeling your travel 'needs' are similar to mine! We stayed in a gorgeous, little luxury retreat (11 villas only) with an excellent chef, very good masseuse/beauty therapist but it really felt like we were staying in our own little holiday house, not in a giant impersonal resort. I will post more about it later.
Hi Rachel,
I have never heard of Vanuatu, and I consider myself pretty well-traveled! Immediately after leaving this comment, I'm off to Google Maps.
I followed you here via Lara's Fabulous blog. I love your content -- I'll be sure to be back!
kirwin @ Graceful Creative’s last blog post..Living Mindfully - Practice does not make perfect
Hi Kirwin
Thanks for the tip - I've popped a google map into the post
Great post and pics!
We've just book our family trip but we are off to New Zealand, although had I seen this earlier I think Vanuatu would have been very very tempting - I love the idea of a holiday there.
Grendel’s last blog post..My Favourite Bee Picture
Thanks Grendel! I'm quite sure your boys (and Mrs Grendel) would have a fantastic time in Vanuatu.
We spent some time at the local primary school and it would be great for your kids to see how different the classrooms are!
Whereabouts are you heading in NZ? We're heading that way (via as many wineries as we can) in January
Hi everyone, correcting a typo error: "I remember when we first arrived with our german shepperd "Chloe" on the island of Tanna early 1971"..that should read 2001, not 1971 (must of been a late night
The bad news is that Chloe passed away on September 25 - 2010.
The good news is that we have keeped ourselves busy and now have the largest image library of Vanuatu on the net for eveyone to get a feel of the place. Check out: http://picasaweb.google.com/vanuatutravel
If you want to know who can help you in Vanuatu? See: http://www.thetravelword.com/category/countries/vanuatu/
or what travellers are saying in Tripadvisor : http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTopic-g294143-i3827-k3610910-Local_travel_agents-Vanuatu.html
We are in Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=522850291
LinkedIn: http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=63510458&trk=tab_pro
Now you have a local connection in Vanuatu.
Cheers,
John and Silvana Nicholls